From Paris with love

While it pains me to share favorite culinary gems, this particular Asian joint warrants masses of tourists and Parisians alike not only because it is cheap, fast and good but also because it needs a slight reality check. Song Heng in the 3rd arrondisement may happen to have fresh noodles and belly warming qualities but they’ve got more attitude than the Hotel Costes. They’ve got the best business in the neighborhood, so why make customers beg? Fresh asian food in Paris isn’t a thing to mess with, but by all means, is a little extra mint so scandalous? I am told so. So here is what I propose; bring your own mint sprig if need be, choose quickly (small or large, soup or bo bun) and belly up to either a bo bun or beef pho soup. The place is minuscule but the turnover goes fast, for a sure table arrive at noon. And as a general rule of thumb, steer clear of the display case Asian diner. Although one can occasionally find a good tarte under glass the same doesn’t go for pan-asian fare. In fact, there are loads of good asian restaurants in Paris, and somehow these little pseudo buffet style hole-in-the-walls manage to keep the microwave and antacid business booming. When your food comes to you via the microwave, not matter how pretty the display looks it’s sure to be gummy and gross. And yes, the same goes for sushi.

Song Heng
3, rue Volta
75003 Paris
lunch only, take-out available

While it may be tricky to finagle a visit to Alain Passard’s vegetable farm (as I did recently) one can still shop like a Michelin chef in Paris. And yes, even in the frosty winter months. Although the markets in Paris are lovely and so quintessentially French, don’t be fooled, over half of what is sold is from much further places, i.e. Peruvian asparagus (!). Finding good winter vegetables (beyond the radishes and pre-cooked beets) can be tricky business. Joel Thiebaut’s stand in the 16th arr. is de rigueur for anyone hoping to run into the likes of Pierre Gagnaire or Pascal Barbot (of l’Astrance) while picking up their rutabaga or parsnips. And if the 16th is too much of a hike, his Haut du Panier service, will deliver his produce to your door.

**and if you happen to have a Metro card (the supermarket that is) you can pick up Alain Passard’s vegetables there.

Joel Thiebaut
rue Gros market
75016 Paris
Tuesday and Friday

Président Wilson market
75016 Paris
Wednesday and Saturday

They’re taking out the bubbly.
Today 10am-7pm

Salon du Champagne
54 rue du faubourg Saint Denis
75010

Zip-lock plastic bags make good envelopes, and gallery invitations can make great men’s ties. This may not be news to you, but it sure was to me. Call it post-modern, avante garde or 3rd grade art class, either way, it got my attention, as did the sculptural-installation-performance-art that is on show. Curated by Caroline Niémant and (the lovely and lewdly named) Peepingtom Gallery, “Joy of Construction” exhibits the work of Melanie Bonajo, Jaap Scheeren and Lukas Wassman. The opening is Thursday, December 20th, with live performances starting at 8pm.

“Joy of Construction”
3, rue Pierre au Lard
75004 Paris
Metro: Rambuteau
December 21st 2007- January 12th 2008
Tuesday-Saturday 2:30pm-7pm

photo credit L-R: Melanie Bonajo, Jaap Scheeren and my own interpretation of the invitation/tie.

The Office of the Mayor of Paris is going all out for the 100th anniversary of color slides. And it’s not only Doisneau this time! Although Robert Doisneau does figure in the picture, this time he shares wall space with the likes of the Martin Parr, Paolo Roversi, Sarah Moon, Helmut Newton, Robert Capa… among others. This exhibit is presented in three parts; 1907-1931 “La Belle Epoque,” 1930-1960 “A Paris Strangely Familiar,” 1960-present “Free Color, a New Look at Paris.” And for those who are mad about mode, there is also a tribute to Vogue photographers who used Paris as their backdrop.

5 rue Lobau
75004 Paris
Metro: Hôtel de Ville
4 of December 2007 until 31 March 2008
Closed on Sundays and holidays
10am-7pm
free entrance
Word to the wise: weekdays are the best for viewing this exhibit.

photo credit: Paolo Roversi (left) and the cover of the exhibition catalog (right)

While most Parisians prefer La Grande Epicerie at Bon Marché for their food chicerie, the new spice rack at Galeries Lafayette is unbeatable. Not only is it decadent but you can have it à la carte, a little here and a little there. Although there isn’t a sneeze guard, each spice is pristinely presented and noted. They also have teas.

La Route de l’Epice
40, bd Haussmann
75009 PARIS
01 42 82 34 56
Open Monday-Saturday 9:30-7:30

Ko-nee-chee-wa! Bonjour! Upon entering Koba one is bombarded by greetings from none other than Mr. Koba himself. There he is behind the counter of bric à brac, just bellow the famous singing bass fish and the returned check from some pour fellow on display for the world to see. This one man show of a chef not only knows how to keep your belly full but has also got to be one of the most rambunctious men in Paris. Although his cutting techniques are brute and the menu is small, the fish is good and original. Of course there are the standard tuna-salmon combos, but aside from that there are udon noodles, tempura, mackerel salad (yum), potato croquettes (go figure) and fried squid. The last two on this list are often gifts from Mr. Koba. That’s probably the best perk, he always gives you a little taste of that something special that he cooked up that day and thinks you must try. The lunch menu is a steal at 11€ with tea, rice, a ubiquitous salad and dessert, which is often a cake that Koba has just baked.

7, Rue de la Michodière
75002 Paris
01 47 42 16 58
Closed Sunday afternoon

In need of some decorating pointers this year? Still got tinsle-y dust bunnies from that year when your cat attacked the tree? Look no further, the fashion set is here to solve your tree treatment woes. In what is becoming a rather odd, but uh, fashionable tradtition, big name designers such as Jean-Paul Gaultier, Christian Lacroix, Hermès, Anne-Valérie Hash, Isabel Marant, Marithé & François Girbaud, Cacharel, Sonia Rykiel, Paul Smith, bring their look to a tree. Aside from exhibiting these trees for one month (are they real pines?) there is also an auction with proceeds benefiting the “Sol en Si” association which assists children with HIV or AIDS and their families. Bravo fashion world. Bravo.

Ministère de la Culture et de la Communication
182, rue Saint Honoré
75001 Paris
Monday-Friday 9-7pm, free entrance
December 7 - January 2

When you’re on the cover of Elle à Table, and the December issue at that, you know that something good is cooking in the pot. Hardly open long enough for most of us to make a proper soufflé, La Cocotte already has swinging events for the wee and old, not to mention their own line of tea towels and aprons (printed on that oh so fashionable and retro toile du jouy) but they also sell homemade sweets and of course, lest one forget, books. I guess that’s what you get when you put four smart cookies together. I had the pleasure to meet the lovely Rachel (that’s her on the Elle à Table cover) the other night and she gave me the rundown on her “biscocottie” au dulche de leche. Silly me forgot to try one, so I guess I’ll have to pop by again soon. Biscocottie, 1,50€ for a pack of three

5, rue Paul Bert
75011 Paris
09 54 73 17 77
Metro: Faidherbe-Chaligny
Open: Tuesday and Wednesday 10:30-7:30pm, Thursday and Friday 10:30-9pm

Finding a good fripe (second-hand fashion piece) in Paris is worth the sweat. But, sweat for it you will. The stores are often cramped, full of flea market undesirables and even the occasional flea as well. But low and behold, From Paris with Love and stylist, Fem Verzelen have sorted and sifted in order to give you a overview of the best. I can’t promise you’ll find a YSL vintage suit for 20 bucks (as I found stateside 5 years ago at Goodwill) but one can always hope.

Freepstar: The new kid on the block is the best bang for your buck. Good vintage purses (lot’s of clutches as of late) and Kate Moss style vests, avoid at all costs Saturday and Sunday. The name is well-known in the Marais as this is the second location. The original location is 8, rue Saint Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004.
66 rue de la Verrerie
75004 Paris
Metro: Hotel de Ville

Iglaïne: Big personality and big finds for bigger budgets. Dries von Noten, Thierry Mugler are among the 200-300€ designer dresses you can pick off of the pristinely arranged electronic revolving racks. Like shopping from the closet of Alicia Silverstone in Clueless.
12, rue de la Grande-Truanderie
75 001 Paris
01 42 36 19 91
Metro: Les Halles
Monday-Saturday 10-7pm

Yukiko: You’re either Japanese (with a pocketbook to match) or a size 4. Snobby reception, but impeccable vintage Dior and beautiful accessories, very 1930s.
97 rue Vieille du Temple
75003 Paris
Metro: Temple
Closed Sundays

Wochdom: Clean black decor, rotating stock, and word has it, if you mention “parisnewyork website” you get a 15 percent discount.
72 Rue Condorcet
75009 Paris
Metro: Anvers

Kiliwatch: Old meets new. Well known among les filles Parisienne for the large stock of boots that arrive each fall. The vintage can be found in the back half of the store and is relatively well laid out.
64 rue Tiquetonne
75002 Paris
Metro: Etienne Marcel
Monday 2pm-10pm; Tuesday-Saturday 11am-7pm

Guerrisol: Cheapest and largest, also the smelliest: a mix of mothballs and french onion soup. Sometimes they will catch a trend , i.e. white, lacy chemises or fur coats at super-duper prices, other times it’s borderline frightening.
At the cross section of rue de Rochechouart and the Boulevard de Rouchechouart, next to a pharmacy and café/tabac.
75009 Paris
Metro: Barbès-Rochechouart

Mamie: A jewel box of whimsies circa 1930-1960. Prices are relatively moderate, great for accessories.
73 r Rochechouart
75009 PARIS
Metro: Anvers

Mamie Blue: The rock-a-billy kid sister of the original Mamie. The stock, which is markedly 70s, is slightly claustrophobic but decently arranged.
69 r Rochechouart
75009 PARIS
Metro: Anvers